Two and a half days in Marrakech

Where we stayed.... Riad Aguarzame 


I have something to confess. I am an addict - a trip advisor addict. I cannot stay anywhere unless it has been thoroughly researched on Tripadvisor. Only if the good people of trip advisor like it. Most of the time so will I. That is how I found Riad Aguarzame - not the most beautiful of all the Riads in Marrakech, but not exactly bad looking - it was service that set it apart. Weirdly, I had failed to do any proper research for our short trip to Marrakech - normally I like to have a schedule, restaurants booked and maps printed but with Marrakech everything was so overwhelming all my good intentions fell by the wayside. 

Luckily, we had Laurent, our host for the weekend. After we arrived at the Riad and settled in to our room - we met Laurent for a drink in the courtyard where he shared all his best tips on what to see and where to eat and basically planned the next couple of days. He then showed us to Jemaa el Fna Square, only five minutes away, which we probably would never have found on our own, showed us where to withdraw money and imparted a whole host of other useful tips. Had we not had this advice I think it’s fair to say we would have paid four times as much as we should have for everything, eaten average food and missed the best things to see in the city.


The courtyard at night: 

Our room: 

The Roof: 

The Riad went out of its way to be as hospitable as possible, organizing transfers to and from the airport, serving us breakfast at whatever time we felt like, and offering to organize dinner in the riad which we declined as we wanted to see the city.  Judging by breakfast (included in the price), which  was huge and satisfying - orange blossom yoghurt, orange juice coffee's, teas and local breads, I'm a little sad we didn't go for the offer. The only thing wrong with the experience, was the fact that a family with a child was also staying in the riad which meant that we got a wake up call at approximately 8am every morning by a child screaming as though life were not worth living. The Riad's website can be found here and our room cost 90 Euro per night.




Where we ate.... Lunch


1) Kosybar
The day we arrived we had a late lunch at KosyBar, situated near the Palace De Bahia and the Tombs. The restaurant sits on a pretty square with a view of the nearby area. We ordered a mixed salad and their chicken which was the most anglacized morrocan dish ever. The chicken was not too interesting and the chips were chips. Perhaps we should have gone for sushi - the chef is Japanese afterall but it seemed a waste. Still it was a tranquil place to get away from all the hustle and bustle especially when you add in a glass of Morrocan Rose..


2) Maison de la Photografia

We were directed to Maison de La Photografita by Laurent. Just north of the Souk, the museum is the highest building in the vicinity, granting it unparalleled views of the city and the mountains. The food was the best we experienced on the trip. Chicken Lemon Tagine, melted in the mouth with a burst of flavour. Couscous with vegetables were incredibly satisfying. The bill was minimal. The view breathtaking. The one place I would have to return to if I were to come again. 

3) Cafe des Epices

We stumbled on Cafe des Epices, when were starving and walking through the souk and needed quick sustinance. Its in a pretty square just off the souk, and we waited about 15 minutes to get a table on their terrace, which of course had spectacular views of the mountains.  The place serves mainly sandwiches and salads, and our Kofte Sandwiches were exactly what we needed. Spiced kofte, fresh bread and a smattering of olives was a dream combination.




Where we ate... Dinner


1) Djemaa el Fna

Laurent told us that being in Marrakech without eating in Djemaa el Fna was like going to Paris and not seeing the Eiffel Tower. Its one of those things that you just have to do. We ate at one of the 100 almost identical stalls . When we asked one of the guys pitching to us, what was the difference between any of the stalls he said " none, its competition". There's nothing like Adam Smith based honesty. The food was average, over cooked meat and small portions,- but the experience made up for it. At night, the square transforms from any ordinary piazza, into a spectacle of Moroccan life. Snake charmers, story tellers, and a thousand or so locals and tourists all pile into one space to mingle, eat and observe. Its oddly beautiful - and very entertaining.

And we drank...
At sky bar at the Renaissance Hotel, which had one hell of a view located 15 minutes walk away from Jardin Majorelle.